A Snowy Fourth of July: July 4, 2009

Greetings small community of faithful, though oft disappointed, readers. The time has come for a brief update once again. As I sit in the lull between Friday and Saturday nights and gather my strength for the ever approaching evening out, I realized that it was the Fourth of July, and for that occasion I thought it would be nice to write a little reflection.

First off, it feels nothing like the fourth, there are no fireworks, it’s snowing, and no one except the 3 other Americans in the hostel seem to care that the US is in celebration mode. However, living in a world of fellow ex-patriots, everyone is game for a bit of cross-cultural exchange, history, and of course, good food and drink. So with that in mind, Evan and I have prepared a summer BBQ, complete with sparklers (in the snow) that my mum managed to smuggle through customs (yes Mum, no one can believe you got those into the country, but I simply told them the Koshars have no respect for rules, and they seemed to accept that as an excuse to transport incendiary devices over an ocean.) After which I think a night of dancing, a birthday phone call to Dad, and then some hot dogs that we managed to find in the supermarket. Sounds like a good night to me.

In other news, the ski resorts have opened, and though I haven’t been out many times, it’s good to have something to break up the monotony of winter, even though it’s a bit out of my price range for it to be a regular event. I will say, as much as I enjoy skiing, I am most definitely a summer boy. I could never feel cold air again and be just fine. That whole 11 months I spent in summer clinched it for me, I hate the cold, and the gray, and the lack of vegetation–give se sunshine, blue skies and flowers and I’ll thrive.

Last, though by no means least, I’m coming home for a visit soon, and it can’t have come at a better time. I desperately need to see some sunshine, it’ll be awesome to see my family, to party it up in Boston, and just relax for a bit in my own bed. Though it’s not a long stay, it’ll be just what I need, and then I’ll remember how much I don’t like being in the US, and head back out to the land of the long white cloud.

So ’til I see everyone stateside, Happy Fourth of July, Happy Birthday Dad, and I’ll be sure to laugh at some Brits for everyone.

Happy Birthday to Me: June 15, 2009

So June 12th has come and gone in both hemispheres now and I think it’s time for a brief recap of my birthday festivities. To begin with I can’t begin to thank all my NZ friends enough, impoverished as much as we all are, they really came through and pulled together an amazing birthday for me, and the best part of all is that I didn’t have to plan a thing!

I was told to be awake at 8:30 for breakfast (it had to be early since a few of the good friends would be at work during the day.) So I woke up and in my bed was a bag of anzac cookies waiting for me, then I rolled into the kitchen, was quickly ousted into the dining area where my chair was covered in balloons and a giant pancake breakfast greeted me, complete with my real maple syrup — a serious luxury over here as it costs a fortune (thanks for that one mum.) Not to mention Suz and Tim sent me a Raglan care package complete with the best coffee on Earth, and it was brewed waiting for me. After devouring the pancakes, fresh fruit, bacon and eggs, Daz told me to go get dressed for a tramp and they needed the keys to put gas in my car.

At 10:30 we embarked on quite the drive on a winding back road, across no fewer than 7 river fords (yes, the car had to cross streams, and it came close on a few, but Gonzo pulled through.) Got out of the car amidst snow-capped peaks and in a valley filled with cows and sheep and hiked 3 hours to Rob Roy glacier. Beautiful hike, it had just rained and the hills just erupted in waterfalls everywhere you looked, not too cold, but enough leftover snow on the ground to have a mini-snowball fight, a definite first on my birthday. Then after the lunch they packed me it was back across the rope-bridge over the ravine and being driven back home. I was then told that the people who just finished work had my bathing suit packed and I was off to soak away in some hot pools while they cooked dinner (no really, I still can’t believe how good that day was.)

After a soak and a sunset, I came home to roast dinner, shepherds pie, tons of roast veggies, gravy, 7 bottles of champagne and no fewer than four courses of desserts…someone told them I like sweets. As an added bonus, thew work we had lined up the next day called and said we didn’t have to come in until 1 in the afternoon–SCORE!  So after the cheesecake, carrot cake, peanut butter cookies and chocolate bars we got the hostel party started. Lots of ridiculous music, funky vibes and of course alcohol added to the fun, a few card games brought everyone together and we set off with a crew of about 30 to Red Rock, where more friends awaited me with a few birthday shots and of course a jager bomb. The night wasn’t without its incidents of course Danni and Evan had to go to the hospital since they didn’t follow the rule about no piggy back rides and ended up face planting into the parking lot, and Tina had a bit too much to drink and the bouncer politely kicked her drunk face to the curb.

Around 4am I came home, checked my phone and saw all my Raglan friends had called me, which was much appreciated, and of course I promptly passed out.

Again, many thanks to everyone, it was an awesome night, only slightly tainted by the lack of any call, email or text from anyone at home (excepting my parents of course) — but whatever, I know it’s hard to dial a phone or text someone, even when you have two days to do it and a tool at your disposal that reminds you of people’s birthdays. And this is why I ask myself, “Why do I want to come home?”

Other than that, it’s tough finding work in a ski town, but I’m working on it, and now I’m just waiting for snow

Southern Cross-words: June 4, 2009

OK OK OK!!! I’m here, sorry everyone for the delay in posts.

Seriously though, there’s not too much to tell (ok that’s probably not true), but it doesn’t feel like there is. I’m slowly settling into my new life in Wanaka, which is wonderful in its own way, but not even close to Raglan. The mountains are astounding though, every morning is just beautiful, the hikes we’ve taken all provide views that capture your breath and imgination. I’ve been cooking alot, in fact everyone at the hostel agrees I’m a pretty amazing cook, and I have to say I surprise myself sometimes. Ian and Liz, the hostel owners, gave me some lamb bones and veggies and I whipped together an amazing lamb stew, I’ve made curries, moroccan feasts, bread, pies, bangers and mash, fish…I love it, and it’s cheaper and healthier–way to go me.

Ski season starts here soon and jobs are scant, though I think I’ve secured myself a spot in a nice little cafe (and yes I totally played the gay card on the nice gay couple that owns it, but you know what, it worked and now I can afford to stay the season–HA!) So that starts in a week or so here, other than that, lots of time at the gym, lots of card games (I’ve got new ones to bring home for my family and (8) cause I know you love them.)

All of my Raglan friends have left, and I’m in a bit of the nine-month slump. I think the weather changing, money situation and friends leaving has made me a little homesick. Don’t get me wrong, I still don’t want to come home, BUT you do miss comforts now and again. Though in another sense, it’s good that my friends are off, it lets me meet new people and have new adventures without getting too settled. Always positive and negatives, for now I’ll just remain my upbeat, adventurous self and I think everything will work itself out.

ALSO, important updates, I will be home July 21! Boston for a few days, then New Jersey, then PA in August…so plan to see me

ONE MORE THING – My new address:

Josh Koshar c/o Wanaka Backpaka

117 Lakeside Rd

Wanaka, NZ 9305

The Road South and More South May 17, 2009

So the road South now lays behind me, but here, in a concise fashion, are a few of the many highlights of the three week journey.

• The Forgotten World Highway with Thomas and Will—this interminable stretch of road in the middle of nowhere passes through the independent Republic of Whangamamaona, current president is a goat, past presidents include the town hick, a dog and a cactus. This memorable drive was made even more fun by running up mountains and reading the off-color jokes on the walls of the local hotel/general store/post office.

• Visited with fellow hostel-working friends for a few days in Taupo, had one of the funniest nights out in my life. Thomas and Will jumped into hedges and we roamed the streets of the quiet lakeside town in search of pies and trouble. Got rid of our hangovers by relaxing under a hot spring waterfall and playing on a jungle gym.

• Drove down the desert road under the rain-shadow of the ominous volcano, were fooled by a plane painted with cookies, drove some more, lots of driving, a few more pies, then arrived in Wellington.

• Stayed at a hostel that I swear is run by gypsies. Seriously, the “long-term” campsite out back might have more STDs than half the nations of West Africa combined. That being said, our room was nice enough, got a bit of culture in the capital city. Cruised real nightclubs (something we hadn’t done for a good couple of months), drank lots of coffee, endured too much rain, I participated in a street performer’s show and then we took the ferry to the South Island.

• Drove through wine country to Nelson, where Thomas and I hiked the Abel Tasman track, stayed at a sweet backpackers with a pool and sauna, as well as a vintage 70s school bus that was the party spot late at night. Met up with Adrian and friends randomly and began a little roadtrip with them.

• Stayed at the nicest backpackers in existence (I’m pretty sure), marble counters, stainless steel appliances, roaring fireplace, a massive feast of steamed mussels, a spa pool overlooking the sounds, not to mention random pets running about. Seriously, worth the three hour drive out to the middle of nowhere.

• Ran back into our friends in Kaikoura. Surfed with dolphins under a backdrop of snow-capped mountains tumbling into the sea. Got up close and personal with some seals and had a roadside seafood feast at the fish stand. Spent the evenings in the hot tub and roasting ourselves by the fireplaces with our new British roommates Liberty and Nicky.

• Crossed Arthurs Pass to the West coast and were accosted by mountain parrots, saw countless waterfalls and for you Lord of the Rings fans out there, drove through Rohan and Gondor, and many other memorable sights. Tunnels, mountains and at the end of it all a view of the wild western sea.

• Stayed overnight at Franz Joseph Glacier where I took an eight-hour guided hike up the glacier under sunny skies and warm rainforest breezes. Beautiful blue ice, friendly guides, and a huge dinner to recharge after the expedition.

• Finally drove to Wanaka via the Central Otago orchards and Aspiring National Park, but wait, not here to stay yet, after a crazy night out where I managed to fall down a dinosaur slide in the rain, we headed to Dunedin en route to Christchurch to pick up the girls.

• Left Thomas in Dunedin with Rabbit and drove to Christchurch, reunited with my girls, finally found a place to stay (they even baked us bread) and Jemma and I set off for a night on the town. Bar hopped from live music, to live fireplace, to live dancing…case in point, it was a night of life.

• Crashed Rabbits house and had a Mexican fiesta, watched movies and cuddled with the girls on our huge mattress bed on the floor after having family movie night and took turns feeding the fire for warmth.

• Arrived back in Wanaka, rooming with the family, which is essentially our room from Raglan transplanted, had a hilarious adventure at Puzzle World, raced through the 2-hour maze and got lost in the illusion rooms and now on the prowl for jobs and waiting for some snow.

Parting is Such Sweet Sorrow: April 23, 2009

Well the much-anticipated day has finally come and gone. That’s right folks, I’m writing from outside of Raglan. I moved outside that bubble of comfort and joy to discover a bit more that this wonderful country has to offer. In a way it’s exciting, I’ve spent what feels like a whole separate lifetime catering to backpackers and now I get to be one again.

Leaving was hard. I won’t pretend otherwise. We did end up stretching the goodbye into a 3-day affair. Friday night was my last shift at the backpackers so we got everyone in town out for a big night of dancing and way too much wine. Saturday morning we all managed to struggle to our feet say a few goodbyes, cook a big feast, and do it all over again. Then Sunday rolled around and we went for a surf, Suz and Tim had us all over their house for a big farewell dinner, complete with gifts for our roadtrip (and a sign for the window for the “snow plough challenge”) they also got me a “possum fur willie warmer” to keep the boys in Wanaka warm…oh how I love those two. Monday morning was perfect, we all woke up at 6, went for a dawn surf, had a big breakfast out at Tongue and Groove, packed, delayed leaving, said a lot of goodbyes and then set off for Taranaki (bro.) It was a mixture of emotions at first, but I think in the end it’s a good thing. Both Thomas and I decided we were getting a bit stagnant and that we had to move on. Of course, because it’s New Zealand, we saw the most beautiful rainbow I’ve ever seen coming through a mountain pass on the drive. Seriously, full double-arched and bright against a peach sky, we also almost got into an accident had Will not yelled at us to watch the road…thanks mate. We found a nice backpackers to stay at (and though nowhere will compare to Rags) we did enjoy things like not having bunk beds, huge showers, no flies, and a town with a movie theatre and 4 supermarkets—whoa. Today we went for a hike up Mt. Taranaki (for those of you film buffs it’s where they filmed The Last Samurai), this lady at the information center had this to say when asked if it was a good day to reach the top, “It was this morning.” Well, with that sort of negativity we had to prove her wrong, so we set off determined to reach the summit in 2 hours (the hike normally takes before the cutoff time of 3 when we had to start heading back down. Okay, so we got off to a late start, but still we got damn close to the top, and it was a good effort. Tomorrow we set off for another unknown, and we like it that way—spirit of adventure back in our shoes and all that.

As for Raglan, I have to end by saying what a wonderful place it was for me. And as the saying goes it’s the people that make a place, and that place is blessed with incredible people. They made my stay outstanding, and more importantly we made ourselves into a family. I learned so much about myself, and grew in many ways I didn’t know were possible. Once again I feel myself coming more and more into myself, a transformation into a more rounded, whole person. Upon leaving I found the most common words escaping my mouth were thank you. Thank you for your kindness, for your personality, for your generosity, for your patience, for letting me share our journeys together for a time, and most of all, thank you for being a friend. So to all my new friends, thank you for this summer, it will forever live in my heart, and I can’t wait to do it again next year, though it will never be the same it will still be amazing, because life should amaze you, and I hope it does for all of you as it does for me.

“Go confidently in the direction of your dreams! Live the life you’ve imagined. As you simplify your life, the laws of the universe will be simpler.” ~Thoreau

Scars Are Souvenirs You Never Lose: March 31, 2009

Holy Cow! I have been in Raglan over 6 months already and I can’t believe I’m preparing to leave in a few weeks. For those of you I haven’t spoken to recently, summer is winding down here (though it’s still warm enough to swim–which is close enough to summer for my tastes) and I’m preparing to head South for the winter season to give my surfboard a break and bust out my skis.

It’s with a mixture of sadness and excitement that I’m leaving Raglan, though I will be back next summer so it’s not really goodbye. But the people that I’ve come to consider my family away from home won’t all be here and as with all things nothing lasts forever. Fortunately several of my friends from Rags are heading down to Wanaka with me, so it should be pretty much the same crew…plus snow.

The surf is HUGE today, and thus I made the wise decision to pass on death for the day, though I did go down and watch the good surfers ripping it…one day maybe that’ll be me–right. In other thrilling news, our pet preying mantis has gotten herself knocked up and bit the head off her ex-lover (Animal Planet you’ve got nothing on this live entertainment.) Dede has completed his masterpiece (a huge 100 square meter mural) and I will post pictures of it soon because it’s brilliant. Work continues to be good, and I’m working extra to save up cash for the road-trip ahead. Lots of good people coming through the backpackers lately, which has been nice–not to mention that I’ve been sharing music like WHOA, my iTunes has doubled in size over the past few weeks…love music

Other than that not much to report. Sterre has been kicking our asses into shape with our crazy fitness routine (though I think with the amount of baking that goes on at the hostel we just about break even.) We had a week of huge family meals together so I’ve been eating like a king (so Mum won’t worry, not that I think you do.) Other than that not much to report, Easter is coming up and we’re already planning a big end-of-summer/holiday party involving liquor filled eggs, a bunny suit and of course a gigantic global feast. More to come after the holiday.

Send me on my Way: March 5, 2009

Again Raglan finds itself pummeled by a windstorm that forces me once again to retire indoors to warmer, – spaces and the isolating comfort of my blog.

Nikki and I just returned from a much-needed Raglan break. Now, I know all of you reading this are saying, “What does he mean, all he does is surf, swim and meet interesting people?” And you wouldn’t be wrong having said that, BUT even paradise can get a bit wearing after a time and it’s important to break out of your routine. I think one of the most pleasurable things you can do is find yourself awake in a new place, and I think I was right.

So we left our surfboards at home, packed up our mountain clothes and took to the road to Taupo, a bit of a thrill seeking lakeside resort under the shadow of a distant somewhat dormant volcano. (Mum and Dad, fyi, this is where we stopped for lunch by the lake.) Using my impressive phone skills and salesmanship inherited from years of watching my parents make anything possible over the phone, I finagled us a free jet boat ride down white water rapids on the Waikato River, and a free nights stay in a charming backpackers–a $320 dollar value in total savings just from asking–I love this place and my life.

Jetboating was an exercise in laughing and holding our cheeks firmly to our faces as we flew over a mere 4 inches of water over some impressive rapids, pulled neck snapping turns at the base of a dam, and skimmed across the surface of what seemed to be some of the clearest, aquamarine blue freshwater I’d ever seen. They even gave us a free picture CD (see below) and of course loaded us down with free brochures to give out (every now and again I like my PR degree.)

Then we cruised over to Huka Falls (the largest waterfall in Australasia by sheer volume of water) which is actually pretty impressive. In the span of 10 meters the river compresses down from a wide, slow-flowing extent of the lake, to a 6 meter wide chasm of raging blue and white water and then cascades over a chasm to hurl itself to the pool of churning water below. One of those eerie places that make you feel like you want to jump in the water but know that doing so is certain death. Creepy.

With that out of the way, we cruised over to the lake, had a charming sandwich at an oh-so-charming cafe and cruised the countless gorgeous tri-athletes in tights that happened to be competing in an ironman competition that weekend. Some of the things Nikki and I come up with are downright naughty, but we laughed ourselves silly as we made our way back to our new backpackers–which, for a change we didn’t have to be in charge of anything. Messes? Not our problem. Noise? Doesn’t bother me. Questions? We don’t know, we’re just passing through.

The next day, after sleeping off a bit of red wine and some incredibly spicy Thai food, we prepared to head out of Taupo, well-rested and refreshed. But of course there was the patter of a rope swing to play on first. After swinging myself into the river multiple times and managing to only injure myself once we hauled ourselves back to the car. Realizing that unlike swimming at the beach we weren’t sticky with salt, we decided to enjoy the freshwater on our skin and skip the shower before heading home renewed, revitalized and ready to take on the backpacking world with a smile on my face and my sarcasm subdued.

Between the Click of the Light and the Start of a Dream: February 28, 2009

So I sit in the midst of a tropical storm. Which isn’t nearly as severe as it sounds, pretty much it’s just windy and colder out. Still, we all just jumped off the bridge into the churning harbor below, which was such a scary rush f adrenaline, it felt like being in the coast guard for a moment on some sort of a rescue mission. The storm aside, we’ve had some freak cold weather these past nights and consequently the staff has taken to cuddlefests and movie marathons at night, which reminds me of home and my eight balls.

I had one of the coolest surfs of my life the other day as i was just cresting a wave and looked to the horizon and saw a huge orca leap out of the water. I think I was the only one to notice it and for the next twenty minutes i scanned the waters occasionally seeing a fin pop out of the sea–very, very cool. I love the presence of nature in this place and how connected I feel to the world around me, and also how conscious I am of my place in it.

Raglan has had it’s ups and downs, I am taking a brief roadtrip with Nikki next week to the mountains for a bit of a break in paradise (yes i know, vacation from my oh-so-stressful life of surfing and sunshine…:) Tonight we’re all getting dressed up for a “spaced-as” party at the Yot club in town. Gotta love small town theme events, you know everyone there so it’s like having a party you don’t have to clean up after. I’ve got about 5 weeks left in Raglantown before cooler weather takes me south for a bit. But I’ll be back, it’s hard to leave a place you love.

With that I’ve got a brief break in the wind and the storm so I think I should make a break for home. Started reading “The God of Small Things” and I think it will be another of those books I’ll end up recommending to you all. Take care friends near and far, my thoughts are with you all.

THERE was a child went forth every day;
And the first object he look’d upon, that object he became;
And that object became part of him for the day, or a certain part of the day, or for many years, or stretching cycles of years.
~Whitman, “Leaves of Grass”

The Shadow of the Valentine: February 18, 2009

Once again I find the weeks melting into one another. Long days of sun on the sea and misty mornings have led to an almost endless supply of perfect days…and on that note I think I should stop before all my snowbound friends jump off a cliff. I have entered the ranks of true surfers and bought myself a board and a wettie…and damn I look good in it–if only I could start looking as good on it. Well, that’ll come with time. It really is cool though, I bought the board off my boss Tim, who is one of my surfing gurus and who always says that it’s the kind of thing that should always be about having fun, and so every time I hop on my board I remember that and smile. Your surf also tends to reflect the state of mind you’re in, and I find that it’s a great mirror to gain a sense of yourself–Tim also taught me that. Wise man that Tim is. So that’s the story of my surfboard and the enlightened relationship I’m building with it (yeah, sometimes I’m even too full of myself for my own good, feel free to tell me to shut up anytime.)

I’ve just finished another wonderful book, “The Shadow of the Wind” by Carlos Ruiz Zaffon — highly recommend it to everyone. Everyone at the hostel has been asking if I’m feeling okay when in reality I’ve just been absorbed by this book and the characters in it. My days have consisted of surfing, eating and reading–which, if you know me is a pretty decent existence.

Once again I’ve managed to survive my least favorite of all holidays, and this year I’d like to think I did it with a bit more grace than usual…only mildly intoxicated and managed to have myself a grand old day. Dede cooked us a big family dinner and we all settled around the table professing our love for one another before everyone went on their sex-starved conquests for the evening. I of course ended up with the cat in my bed as Travis is out of town and I was actually down with being alone. I know, it’s like I’m becoming a mature person…or I just needed a bit of time off from the games of the heart. One way or another, I made it through.

It’s also the time of backpacking season, for whatever reason, that is yielding a lot of goodbyes. People have started to leave en masse for home or other ports and it seems the farewell parties have strung themselves together like so many fairy lights and friendship bracelets. In a way it’s sad, but it’s also the life of a backpacker, permanence is a luxury you tend to give up, and it’s not something I need at the moment anyway. I’ve got my rocks of stability back in the states and my makeshift band of bleary-eyed backpackers/workers that amount to our own version of family, so I count my many blessings and move on to the next challenge. Ah life, what have you in store for us next?

Where the Ocean Meets the Sky: February 4, 2009

I apologize for the brevity of the following post, and there will be a better one coming soon, but chew on this for a bit while I come up with something better to amuse my bored friends and family at home:

The month of January seems to have cascaded by. Long, languid days of blissful summer have been flowing steadily one after another and life is simply beautiful. Hence why I’ve been absent from the “inter-world” for a bit, the days have just been too nice to spend them inside.

We’ve had several strings of really great backpackers coming through the hostel these past weeks, which has made it, as it usually is, a really great place to spend these days. Raglan had a really laid-back food and wine festival the other day and since then we’ve been gorging ourselves on all sorts of fresh produce, tasty treats and the like. I, of course because it’s me, have turned my night shifts at the hostel into occasions to try out new social events. We had Italian night last night, with lots of food and lots of wine, then I came up with a photo scavenger hunt for everyone to do, split them into teams and had a judging session that rainy night. Not to mention Twister tournaments and naked 2AM bridge jumps (which there have been three of in the past few days—hilarity, especially if you steal their clothes afterwards….not that I’d ever do something as childish as that ☺

Other than that there’s not much to report, I work a bit, when I’m not working I surf or swim or read or lie on the beach…like I’ve said before, there’s a kind of peace to be found in the simple. It’s something I’m glad I’ve learned and is that knowledge something I can take with me throughout life and I think it could only really come in a place like this.